Inspirations
Embark on your own solo hiking adventure in Peru with confidence. Learn from my experience as I share essential tips, best trails, and safety advice to help you explore Peru's breathtaking landscapes solo
by Pico Iyer
19-07-2024
Sitting at an altitude of 11,800 feet, I was engaged in a serious discussion with a baby alpaca. We were actually on the same page, so everything was going swimmingly. Perched above Ollantaytambo in Peru's Sacred Valley, I found myself outside the Incan village of Pumamarka's old ruins. Azure skies with clouds that looked like they were painted there, with the Andes sticking out into the distance. On the slope below me: verdant terraces that break up the landscape. In reality, though, my pseudoruminant friend was the only one who looked at me. With the exception of a small group of grazers twenty yards below us, the mountain was entirely ours. Porfirio (Porfy) Carbajal, our guide, was carefully plotting our next move.
In order to visit the brand new Ollantaytambo eco-resort, Las Qolqas, I traveled to Peru. I was among the first American journalists to visit it after it debuted in April 2021, when tourism was still sluggish due to COVID-19 closures and political turmoil. My first plan was to go in February 2022, but I had to change it because of airport protests in Lima. Instead, I'm going to take a summer (or winter in Peru) vacation this year and concentrate on trekking in the Sacred Valley.
I met Porfy, owner of the local tour business Kuska Expeditions, in the heart of Ollantaytambo the day before my climb to Pumamarka, so we could learn about the Incan and Quechuan history of the area. We strolled through the village, a collection of low structures with stone foundations built by the Incan, as it poured. In an Incan style typical of the 1200s, the water from the rain poured down amunas, which were thin stone canals like the gutters of a bowling alley. We discussed Porfy's Quechuan heritage, as well as jogging and hiking. As a child, he helped keep the trail we used to descend from Pumamarka in good repair; now, he is an engaged part of the Indigenous Quechua community.
Pumamarka is far higher than Machu Picchu, standing at over 12,000 feet. That is where we began, for that reason. We were planning to visit Machu Picchu the following day, and the elevation would be nothing compared to what we could expect.
The main home at Las Qolqas was a cozy place for me to spend the night before visiting Machu Picchu. Even though the heavy rain outside was making me nervous before my hike, the steady stream of Pisco sours and muña (Andean mint) tea was calming me down. With a woven blanket and my book, I sat at the bar after supper, enjoying trout ceviche that had been caught only that day from the Vilcanota River, which ran through the property. The fish was bathed with leche de tigre. After that, I went inside my covered shelter and slept through the relentless downpour.
Porfy and I raced through the rain the following morning in order to board the Inca Rail that would take us to Machu Picchu. We squeaked by. Although Ollantaytambo is the nearest rail station to Machu Picchu, the journey takes approximately two hours and isn't exactly a picnic if it rains. Regardless, we began the day by investigating Machu Picchu and ended it by climbing Wayna Picchu, the nearby summit. A guide has never been more appreciated than when I was on my own. Would I have been able to handle the train ride and the Machu Picchu dance on my own? Of course. Although the track was only 2.5 miles long, it had multiple steep ascents on slippery, wet stones, and I would not have been able to complete it without assistance. Naturally, it was well-marked, but in the poor weather, it was deserted. As I clambered up the steep steps that wound their way over the Sacred Valley, which was 8,700 feet below, it was a tremendous pleasure to have someone to hold on to.
Whether I slept during the train ride back to Ollantaytambo, how I descended from Wayna Picchu's summit, or when the rain stopped would be beyond my comprehension. What I do know is that I was making my way back to Las Qolqas to relax in the cedar hot tub as the sun went down. Even though the rain had finally subsided, the sound of the river rushing through the eco-resort lingered while I dried off. Afterwards, I headed to the main house to quench my thirst with muña tea.
Given the political turmoil that afflicted Peru from December to March, regularly shutting Machu Picchu and leaving tourists stranded there, this may come as a surprise, but it's really an excellent time to visit. According to Peru expert Allie Almario of T+L A-List, "Things started settling down in March and Peru is now fully operational." According to Almario, a trip planner at Premier Tours, political protests rarely endure as long as the ones that occurred at the start of the year. Additionally, there are no remaining COVID-19 protocols. She claims that the next busy season, which is June to September (our summer and Peru's winter), offers a once in a lifetime chance to visit the nation while prices are still relatively low and the infrastructure is ready to receive visitors. As a result, there is hardly any crowding and getting a train ticket to Machu Picchu or an Inca trail pass is a breeze. "And for the most part, travelers don't even realize there were previous issues," says Almario of his clients who are "coming and going regularly now."
"Do your homework and share your itinerary with at least one trusted contact before you set off for your hiking trip," advises Matt Berna, president and managing director of the Americas at Intrepid Travel. "Be prepared for weather changes, carry only the essentials, purchase a topographical map, and conduct extensive research about the area you intend to hike in." Berna elaborates by saying that a satellite GPS is a good idea to "stay connected with friends and family and call for help if needed" when trekking alone in remote places or wilderness or in regions without cell coverage.
When I was a lone tourist, I fell in love with the intimate eco-resort. With just one main dining area, sixteen platform tents, a fire pit, a spa with a cedar hot tub and a barrel sauna, and a yoga pavilion shaped like a dome, Las Qolqas is surprisingly compact. There's a common dining area where I got to know most of the hotel patrons, including two ladies my age whom I went out to drinks with one night. Guests and staff were invited to attend a ritual called Pago de la Tierra, which celebrated the Quechuan new year, one night. The celebration took place around a blazing bonfire. However, Las Qolqas was mostly a place where I enjoyed spending time alone. I would sit on my porch with a journal, lean against the bar while the couple behind it stirred Pisco sours, and lay out on the outdoor loungers while looking out over the resort's flower garden. "It's a really nice place to do nothing," suggested Luciana Martinez, the resort manager, upon my arrival — and she was absolutely correct.)
In my experience, it is generally beneficial to collaborate with a hotel that has strong relationships to local tour guides; my hotel took care of arranging my guide for me. Call the hotel ahead of time to find out if they can assist with arranging guided tours and, if so, how much extra it would cost. Whether you're looking for a simpler hike or a more demanding excursion, Berna suggests considering a small-group tour operator. "Go solo, but not alone — that’s our motto." Working with a guide via the hotel made booking my entire trip a breeze, and Las Qolqas frequently collaborates with Kuska Expeditions. My hotel kept in close contact with my guide, and the tour operator set up everything of my transportation, from tickets to ride the Inca Rail to Machu Picchu to trail passes.
You can discover more reasonably priced hotel alternatives in the center of Ollantaytambo and arrange for a guide independently if the cost of a luxury hotel and guide is too much for your budget. My number one piece of advice if you're planning on hiking in remote places and touring with a guide one-on-one is to meet up with them before you start to make sure you're comfortable. Last but not least, lone travelers would love small-group tours because, as Berna says, "We've done all the hard work for you. After years of study, we have developed hiking itineraries that include professional trail guides and take you to the most scenic parts of trails.
