Inspirations
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by Paul Bowles
24-06-2024
Undulating emerald vines around the Chilean capital, rather than huge suburbs. Grassy Sauvignon Blancs and earthy Syrahs are famous from the cool-climate Leyda and Casablanca Valleys, which are located to the west. In the northern Aconcagua Valley, you can find robust Bordeaux varieties. The Maipo Valley, which may be reached by traveling south or east, is the birthplace of the world-famous Chilean Cabernet Sauvignons.
Until recently, tourists who wanted to try the greatest bottles had to hire a car and drive outside of Santiago city boundaries. But that has all changed because of a new wave of trendy urban wine bars.
Bocanáriz, the trendy vinobar thought to have started the movement, is a good place to start in the trendy Lastarria district for a sampling with a sommelier. Then take a leisurely stroll to the Santiago Wine Club shop, where the knowledgeable staff is more than happy to showcase an assortment of uncommon bottles. You'll find high-altitude Grenache and old-vine Carignan, among other wines, all sourced from independent vintners and experimental winemaking associations, like Chanchos Deslenguados.
Polvo, located in the hip Bellavista district just across the Mapocho River, serves handcrafted charcuterie boards alongside organic wines from small producers in an environment evocative of a sophisticated country store. (Just a block away is La Chascona, the charmingly quirky home of Nobel Prize–winning poet Pablo Neruda.) It's a perfect place to stop after exploring La Chascona. Patio Bellavista, a bustling eating complex, is located elsewhere in the area, as is Barrica94, a massive wine bar that offers samples of over thirty labels by the glass. Require a sleep aid? For herbal cocktails with local ingredients, head to Salon Chharqu. Or, for a highball prepared with Träkál, a Patagonian gin-like spirit, try Siete Negronis.
Some of Lastarria's most atmospheric hotels are located there, such as the modern Hotel Magnolia, which features an eclectic decor of exposed brick, checkered tiles, and geometric lighting fixtures. Close by, at The Singular, you'll find a lively rooftop bar, lounges adorned with artwork, and suites that are both large and handsomely furnished. Book a stay at the eco-friendly five-key casona Hotel Carmenere for a more personal experience. Guests can savor the peppery punch of the hotel's namesake grape in the underground wine cellar.