Adventure Travel
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by Tim Cahill
15-07-2024
The almost-end-of-the-world landscape of Patagonia, which stretches over Argentina and Chile, has long been a tourist magnet. You can find old-growth forests, blue fjords, and snow-capped mountains in these nations' national parks. At the farthest southernmost point of the Americas, enormous, old glaciers erupt with a tremendous roar, releasing icebergs.
Two of the region's most popular attractions, Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina, draw hundreds of thousands of tourists annually. Go to both if you want to experience the Patagonian region to the fullest. Doing so, particularly during peak season, necessitates extensive planning of logistics. To make the most of your time in this enchantingly remote part of the world, here is a detailed guide to help you plan your trip.
A lot of the hotels in the area are open all year, however during the southern hemisphere winter (April–September), you might not be able to use some of the services that are offered to visitors during the peak season.
Visit in the spring when flowers are in bloom or in the fall when leaves are a flaming mosaic of red, orange, and yellow to avoid crowds and yet enjoy nice weather. Even though temperatures rarely go over 70 degrees and winds can reach gale force, the summer months of December through February do have the mildest weather.
Keep in mind that the weather in Patagonia, especially during the spring and early summer, can be very unpredictable. Unpredictable weather, including temperature swings and the arrival of powerful storms from the Pacific, is a real possibility. Preparing for bad weather by adding extra days to your plan is a good idea.
You should definitely take a plane to Patagonia instead of driving all the way from Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile or Argentina due to the large distances involved. During the peak season (December to February), airline seats sell out fast, so it's recommended to get your tickets in advance: I recommend six months. If you want to avoid paying a fortune and having a hard time finding a flight during the other high season months (October to early May), you need plan ahead three months.
Every day of the year, LATAM Airlines flies nonstop from Santiago, Chile, to Punta Arenas, a popular departure point for trips to southern Chilean Patagonia; the flight takes around 3.5 hours.
One further departure point south of Punta Arenas is Puerto Natales, which is serviced by Chile's low-cost airline Sky Airlines. The flight regularly makes a stop at Puerto Montt, but passengers typically get to remain on board. In most cases, Sky Airlines has more affordable prices compared to LATAM.
If you book your flight to Puerto Natales early, you can save money. The driving time from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas is three hours, from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park it's two hours, and from Punta Arenas to the park it's four or five hours.
The main entrances in Argentina are Calafate and Ushuaia, both of which are less than four hours' flight from Buenos Aires. Airlines such as LATAM and Aerolineas Argentinas fly to these locations. The world-renowned Perito Moreno Glacier and Los Glaciares National Park are about an hour's drive away from El Calafate Airport. El Chaltén, a famous trekking location in the area, is accessible by rental car and approximately three hours away from El Calafate Airport.
Airport and daily excursion transports are included at many of Patagonia's five-star hotels. You may easily travel by land or sea between Argentina and Chile. Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas do not currently have any flights that go to El Calafate or Ushuaia.
Australis cruises link Punta Arenas and Ushuaia from the end of September until the beginning of April. Ships that set off on four- or eight-night expeditions cross fjords, the Avenue of the Glaciers, the Magellan Strait, the Beagle Channel, and Cape Horn. Riding the Zodiac every day allows visitors to get up close and personal with icebergs, penguin colonies, and elephant seals, among other animals.
Depending on your needs, you can arrange for a private shuttle, take a bus, or hire a car for an overland journey. During the high season, Bus-Sur runs daily routes connecting Puerto Natales, Chile, and El Calafate, Argentina; in the off season, the frequency drops to several times weekly. The time required to clear customs can add another three to five hours to the move. To ensure a seat, especially during peak season, book online at least one month in advance.
Though guided tours and buses make crossing the border a breeze, there are plenty of opportunities for independent travelers to explore the region between Chile and Argentina. Before you try to cross the border on your own, make sure you know what you're doing.
Weather in Patagonia can change quickly, so visitors should pack accordingly. Travelers should bring layers because the weather can change drastically in a single day, going from cold to seventy degrees. Protect yourself from the intense sun by packing a waterproof jacket, sturdy hiking boots, sunscreen, and good sunglasses.
A carry-on is OK at high-end lodges, but a backpack is essential for hikes lasting more than a day. For day hikes or shorter treks, a smaller backpack is better. Luxury hotels often supply guests with complimentary water bottles and trekking poles.
Patagonia in Chile is less popular with tourists than in Argentina since it is smaller and more rough. If you want to explore beyond the main attractions and see some lesser-known places, you should visit the Chilean side.
Many tourists visit Patagonia in search of the ethereal Torres del Paine National Park and the chance to see the region's unique wildlife, which includes the Big Five: pumas, guanacos, huemul, Andean condors, and the rhea, which resembles an ostrich. In addition to over a hundred bird species, you can see flamingos, foxes, penguins, and more. Leopard safaris spanning multiple days are available through a number of tour operators inside the park. Guests should also make time to wander among the park's old-growth woodlands. Look for Magellanic woodpeckers and Austral parakeets in the upper branches of old southern beech trees (lenga, coihue, ñire). The world-renowned W Circuit, so called because of its form, offers half-day and full-day hikes that provide unforgettable views of freshwater lakes, turquoise lagoons, ice floes, and shimmering glaciers. Featuring some of the world's most famous landmarks, the W Circuit is a 50-mile walk that may be completed in a week or more. Overnight stays for trekkers are typically spent in campsites or refugios, which are rudimentary shelters designed like dorms. Less isolated, you may take a leisurely stroll around the vibrant fishing village of Puerto Natales or go boating through the region's maze of beautiful fjords to see enormous glaciers and marine life. Stop by the penguin colonies at Seno Otway or Magdalena Island in Punta Arenas, and keep an eye out for whales and sea lions in the water. The Strait of Magellan can also be paddled.
Airport transfers, a variety of full- and half-day excursions, three gourmet meals per day with premium wine and cocktails, and more are all part of the all-inclusive packages offered by Patagonia's luxury lodges. With dozens of trips in Patagonia and Torres del Paine accompanied by knowledgeable guides, Explora was an early innovator in this field. Awasi is also known for its fourteen private villas, each of which comes with its own guide and four-wheel drive vehicle so that visitors can go at their own speed while exploring the surrounding area. With views of Paine Massif and Lake Sarmiento, Tierra Patagonia is an adventure spa that follows a certain philosophy. After a long day of exploring, guests can relax with a massage or soak in the outdoor hot tub. The eco-friendly EcoCamp is a geodesic dome lodge located within Torres del Paine National Park, perfect for those who enjoy glamping. From simple cabins with shared bathrooms and balconies to luxurious two-story tents with panoramic views of the Patagonian sky, guests can choose from a variety of accommodations. Las Torres, Cascada Expediciones, MT Sobek, and Swoop Patagonia are just a few of the operators that put together guided camping trips during the trekking circuit. Also in and around the vibrant fishing village of Puerto Natales are a number of high-end villas. Located on the shores of Last Hope Sound, the Singular Patagonia is a renovated national monument from the early 20th century with an industrial-chic twist. Guests at the Lakutaia Lodge on Navarino Island, which is adjacent to Cape Horn, are surrounded by fjords and glaciers. The chance to helifish and heliski, though, is what really draws adventurers.
Guests of the several lodges located on private reserves can enjoy a complete breakfast, lunch, and dinner prepared by skilled chefs using fresh, regional foods such as seaweed, white strawberries, guanaco, and Patagonian hare. Seafood options include oysters, conger eel, choritos (mussels), snook-and-hake ceviche, and South American king crab. Enjoy with a glass of Chilean wine or a pisco sour.
Patagonia hotels in Chile provide an incredible variety of full- and half-day activities, including mountain trekking, horseback riding, cycling, kayaking, sailing picturesque fjords, and glacier cruises, among many other options. For serious hikers, reaching the foot of Torres del Paine ("Mirador Las Torres") should be an absolute priority. A whole day of hiking up and down the mountain is required, but the payoff is well worth the effort when you can see the granite spires that rise from the blue glacial lake (weather permitting, of course). Ancient, shimmering glaciers may be seen up close on a Zodiac cruise. The Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers, which can be reached from the Puerto Natales wharf, are popular destinations, as are Grey Glacier. Or, you might go horseback riding through the fjords at the family-run Estancia Mercedes and spend the day with some real Chilean cowboys.
Biting midges are a real problem if you plan on visiting Chile in the summer. Wear light-colored garments with long sleeves and often spray yourself with natural insect repellent because these little flies are drawn to dark colors. If you're a serious hiker, you might want to go in November or April instead of July or August to avoid all the other trekkers in Torres del Paine National Park. Using two trekking poles is the way to go on difficult hikes. On the way down, they will protect your knees.
When compared to Chile's share of Patagonia, Argentina's is bigger and more geographically varied. The fact that the Andes Mountains cast a rain shadow over Chile ensures that the country avoids precipitation from the Pacific Ocean, which could be an additional perk for Argentina.
Attracting tens of thousands of visitors annually, the 97-square-mile Perito Moreno Glacier is located in Los Glaciares National Park and has been recognized a UNESCO World Heritage site. On the Argentinean side of Patagonia, it is a must-see attraction situated near El Calafate in one of the most remarkable ice fields in the world. During boat tours on Lake Argentino, the largest freshwater lake in Argentina, you will get an up-close look at massive icebergs as they plummet from the glacier into the lake. Hiking out onto the glacier while wearing metal crampons is an option offered by certain trips.
Tourists can experience rustic Patagonian ranch life at one of the area's historic estancias. Nibepo Aike and Estancia Cristina (see to "Where to Stay" for further information) are equally worthy of your time. There is no shortage of beautiful, untouched scenery or outdoor activities in the region, such as hiking, horseback riding, and seeing the glaciers.
The tranquil hiking village of El Chaltén, renowned for its lofty Fitz Roy mountain summit, is three hours' drive north of El Calafate. There is a network of beautiful paths suitable for hikers of all abilities, and the little frontier town is scattered with charming cabins.
Tierra del Fuego is where you'll reach the farthest point on Earth. Passengers traveling by sea between Chile and Argentina can enter or exit the country via Ushuaia, the capital city. The fabled Beagle Channel, made famous by scientist Charles Darwin on his Beagle journey in 1831, is home to penguins, sea lions, and cormorants. You may observe them on a boat cruise or catamaran excursion.
A verdant sub-Antarctic rain forest sheltered by beech trees can be found in Tierra del Fuego National Park, and a breathtaking panorama of Ushuaia and the channel may be enjoyed at Glacier Martial. Travelers from all over the world go to the Rio Grande River's banks in the hopes of catching a brown trout that will set a new world record.
Right on the southern shore of Lake Argentino, you'll find two lovely hotels—Xelena and the Esplendor El Calafate Hotel—that provide reasonably priced lodgings.
The 10,000-acre EOLO complex overlooks a lake and is located 30 minutes west of El Calafate in arid steppe and pampas grass. The lodge exudes an inviting rustic vibe thanks to its collection of antiques, sturdy wooden furnishings, and a mishmash of dinnerware. Guests are invited to participate in guided excursions, ride horses, mountain bike, and bird watch in the surrounding area. Guests of the hotel can also make arrangements for trips to see the Upsala and Perito Moreno glaciers. Choose a corner suite if you want a room with a view.
Estancia Cristina, a sheep ranch from the early 20th century, is located outside of town and can only be reached by taking the resort boat over Lake Argentino. This conserved estancia is situated on 54,000 acres of untamed Patagonian terrain, and it provides a variety of experiences, such as trekking, horseback riding, and sailing amid icebergs close to the Upsala Glacier.
On the other hand, a Croatian pioneer established the working ranch Estancia Nibepo Aike on the shores of Lake Roca around the beginning of the twentieth century. Guests can observe sheep being sheared, gain horseback riding skills, and taste authentic Patagonian lamb asado (barbecue) at the estancia, which still raises cattle and sheep. Day tours to the less-visited glaciers Cubo, Frías, and Dickson can also be organized from this location for guests.
Helsingfors Lodge, a converted ranch on the edge of Lake Viedma, offers excellent cuisine and breathtaking mountain views and is located halfway between El Chaltén and El Calafate. The immaculate private nature reserve on Lake San Martin, a few hours north of El Calafate, is home to Estancia El Cóndor, so called because of the condor nesting locations in the area.
Set on a mountaintop with breathtaking views of El Chaltén, Los Cerros is the most posh option amid a backpacker paradise full of hostels. An exquisite lakeside refuge with views of Mount Fitz Roy's north face is the Aguas Arribas Lodge, which is located around one hour's drive north of El Chaltén.
Ushuaia is home to two five-star resorts that provide guided wilderness walks and boat excursions: Los Cauquenes and Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa. Both properties provide views of the Beagle Channel.
There are a few local specialties you just must try, even though most estancias provide full board with three meals daily.
The local folklore states that whoever consumes a calafate berry (barberry), which is the source of El Calafate's name, will be transported back to Patagonia. Delish jams prepared from zarzaparrilla (wild currant) and chaura (prickly heath) and calafate liquor are worth trying.
While staying at one of the estancias, you must try a Patagonian asado. While you savor the local lamb cooked over an iron cross over a live fire by the asadors, raise a glass of Páramo wine to complement the dish. El Calafate's La Tablita is a top pick for grilled food. Ushuaia is home to Kaupé, widely regarded as one of the top restaurants in Argentina serving traditional seafood dishes.
Be sure to sample the Beagle beer, made from glacier meltwater, when you're in Argentina. Mate, on the other hand, is among the most essential and culturally significant Argentine beverages. Caffeine-rich yerba mate tea, traditionally prepared using a hollowed-out gourd or a wooden mate cup, has been enjoyed as part of many traditional Mexican social rituals for centuries. Using a bombilla, a traditional straw, is essential for the authentic experience. In case you find the bitterness to be too much, you may always add some sugar.
An classic expedition in Patagonia is a visit to Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park. Hielo & Aventura can help you plan any size ice trekking excursion.
Guests can embark on multi-day glacier adventure sailings along Lake Argentino with Marpatag, another tour business, and see the Upsala, Spegazzini, and Perito Moreno Glaciers.
Among the many highlights of a full-day trip to Estancia Cristina is a boat ride past waterfalls and glaciers. The 4.5-hour hike to Cañadon de los Fosiles begins at the estancia and takes you via a valley filled with ancient fossils, with views of Lake Guillermo and the Upsala Glacier along the way.
El Chaltén is home to several beautiful day walks, including as the six-hour Cerro Torre Trek and the eight-hour Mount Fitz Roy Trek, all of which lead to Laguna de los Tres. The Viedma Glacier is another great place for ice hiking.
Seek out aquatic life in the Beagle Channel or climb to breathtaking vistas in Tierra del Fuego National Park while you're on the island of Tierra del Fuego.
An classic expedition in Patagonia is a visit to Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park. Hielo & Aventura can help you plan any size ice trekking excursion.
Guests can embark on multi-day glacier adventure sailings along Lake Argentino with Marpatag, another tour business, and see the Upsala, Spegazzini, and Perito Moreno Glaciers.
Among the many highlights of a full-day trip to Estancia Cristina is a boat ride past waterfalls and glaciers. The 4.5-hour hike to Cañadon de los Fosiles begins at the estancia and takes you via a valley filled with ancient fossils, with views of Lake Guillermo and the Upsala Glacier along the way.
El Chaltén is home to several beautiful day walks, including as the six-hour Cerro Torre Trek and the eight-hour Mount Fitz Roy Trek, all of which lead to Laguna de los Tres. The Viedma Glacier is another great place for ice hiking.
Seek out aquatic life in the Beagle Channel or climb to breathtaking vistas in Tierra del Fuego National Park while you're on the island of Tierra del Fuego.
Santiago, the city of Chile, and Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, are both major cities that provide access to Patagonia. No visa or reciprocity fee is required for U.S. citizens to visit either nation.
Everyone has their own choice when it comes to which side to start on. But if you're planning a cross-border trip, you can begin your exploration in one country and end it in the other, giving you the best of both worlds.