The Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica: A Gastronomic Adventure

My first stop in Costa Rica, the seaside town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, was approaching sunset when I arrived. I made my way to Satta Lodge, my rainforest hotel just a short distance from the beach, and checked in. Neither the sloth sanctuary nor the verdant jungles of Corcovado National Park nor the enticing beaches were the main draws for me visiting this verdant nation. I went to Limón province, on the eastern coast of Costa Rica, to sample Jamaican food, which has a rich tradition there.

Nearby fisherman from the Caribbean started settling in the early 1800s; around a century and a half later, young Marcus Garvey would launch his career as a fighter for racial and political justice. Jamaicans seeking work flocked to Limón in the 1870s, when a huge railway project was underway to bring coffee beans from the Costa Rican highlands. Nearly 20,000 Jamaicans came to Costa Rica at the turn of the twentieth century to labor on the infamous plantations owned by the United Fruit Co. Despite the oppressive conditions, the immigrants were able to hold on to their traditions, which shaped the local cuisine and culture.

Limón is where Afro-Caribbean culture is most deeply ingrained, but many of these Jamaicans' descendants now reside in other regions of Costa Rica. The colors green, black, and red, which Garvey used to design a flag representing the Pan-Africanist movement he supported, can be seen all around town, from apparel to stores and eateries. Black women, who play a crucial role in preserving cultural cuisines, are often shown in modern art. Furthermore, "easygoing" is more of a philosophical stance than a practical way of living.

After a five-hour trip from Juan Santamaría International Airport, I was a little tired, so I strolled a few blocks away from the resort to find Morian Soda Caribeña, where I had my first dinner in the country. Along with a "small" piece of baked snapper that about filled the entire container, I devoured a heaping helping of beans and rice (often called "rice and peas" in the African diaspora), veggies, and plantains. It was a soul-nourishing lunch.

Based out of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, I planned to spend the following three days driving throughout the area.

Day 1

I went forty miles north down the coast to Limón for another hearty lunch at Barbarita's Caribbean Food after waking up to the sound of howler monkeys. Daily buffet offerings from owner Damaris Barrantes Mendez and family pay tribute to Jamaican influence in the area. Dishes like rice and beans, Caribbean chicken sautéed in a mildly flavored coconut milk, and hash made with chayote, a summer squash, are included. Returning to Cahuita, a lively community located around 30 miles south of Limón, I resumed my journey along the coast in order to rendezvous with chef Doria Sequeira Selles at her establishment, Cahuita's Taste Caribbean Soul Food. Following a flight of creative ciders that included pineapple chile and Caribbean punch, I paired my langosta en salsa caribeña con camarones—lobster over plump shrimp, immersed in a curry sauce scented with subtle spices—with a star-fruit cider. Patacones, a staple in Costa Rica, were there to help me soak it all up. The green plantain is an essential ingredient in many African diaspora meals, and this dish is just one of many Latin American and Caribbean takes on the fruit. A local favorite and Selles's calling card, the meal ended with a delicious and alcoholic rum cake. A nod to the neighborhood that is important to her restaurant and her identity, Selles said she made the dish for. In an interview, Selles identified herself and her family as Black people. We remain Black no matter where we travel. Our cultural heritage and customs are meant to be treasured. Because this is our creation, we have every reason to be proud.

Day 2

At Tamara's Caribbean Restaurant in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, I sat on a barstool and enjoyed an early lunch by the ocean. While I was there, I overheard Rastafarians chatting with other tourists and friends. On a scorching summer day, I relished a bowl of creamy seafood soup that included an abundance of shrimp and mussels. It was strangely calming. As I listened to the surf crash at Playa Puerto Viejo, I savored my last few gulps of cuba libre. Salsa Brava Restaurant & Bar has been around for a long time and is famous for its reggae evenings and "ground provision" meals such fried sweet plantains and cassava fritters. El Sendero Beach Club is a newer establishment just along the shore.

Keeping their Jamaican traditions alive at Salsa Brava is a matter of "survival" and "identity" for Wanda Patterson and her family, who own the club. She explained that the use of root vegetables, coconut milk, and oil were passed down through generations. While I waited for my sandwich—a delectable journeycake—made from her homemade Caribbean bun—served with refried beans, pico de gallo, curry sauce, and vegetables—to arrive, I leaped into the water. It was only a three-minute stroll from the beach clubs to the vegan restaurant Jammin Vegan, and I was ready to eat after wading in water with shimmers of light. Vegan renditions of classic dishes served by Brian "Temps" Templeton's Jamaican parents during his childhood in the United Kingdom are on the menu. He prepared saltfish fritters in his own unique way: burgers with chickpea and wheat flours, garlic, chili, and strips of salty nori. I devoured them with a tangy jerk sauce.

Day 3

I was determined to find oxtail in Puerto Viejo before I went since it seemed strange to be in the Caribbean without it. Joe SnackPoint & Caribbean Food served the juicy pork with beans and rice. A revitalizing watermelon beverage at Cocomar Comida Caribeña, a nearby eatery, brought me to life amongst the scorching Costa Rican sun.

La Nena was an excellent last visit back in Limón. As I took a deep breath of the salty sea air and gazed out at the water, the Jamaican community's impact on this shore became crystal clear. Over a meal of patacones and, you guessed it, rice and beans, happy, animated conversations floated on the breeze, carried on by most tables.