What I Learned About Family Vacations from My Son's First Birthday Party in Costa Rica

Santa Teresa, a tranquil seaside hamlet on the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica, had long been a destination I wanted to see. Its surf culture, palm-fringed beaches, and "pura vida" attitude had always captivated me. With our son's first birthday approaching, the lifting of COVID-19 restrictions felt like fate. I felt compelled to give the present to our kid, Miles, because my career as a travel writer has been greatly influenced by my many travels across the world. A trip is the best present you can give. So, I decided to skip the birthday bash and instead treat him to a monthlong getaway to Santa Teresa. Luckily, all the stars aligned, and we were able to make it happen. 

At night, we arrived. Our driver said he was exhausted after 4.5 hours on the road when we arrived at a convenience shop on a dusty, unpaved route. We made our way to Nala, our vacation rental, through the dark, negotiating a rocky hill and a steep pitch. The hike was brief but challenging, and carrying our beloved BabyBjörn carrier made the journey a little more unsettling. 

Everything changed as soon as the sun rose. Huge windows that ran nearly the length of the living room let in plenty of natural light. I was able to fully appreciate it today, despite the fact that we had slept it off the night before after racing to put up the pack and play. Concrete floors and sleek furniture characterized our contemporary, one-bedroom flat. Even though it was before breakfast, I went out onto the balcony to take in the view of the pool and garden, visited the yoga shala, and even went for a swim. Compared to my memory of the down the night prior, the ascent felt considerably less treacherous. (Hint: I did, in fact, become accustomed to performing the round-trip route many times daily.) 

Allow me to take a moment to address some transportation-related details. Running parallel to the shore, Santa Teresa's one major route is partially paved. Almost everyone who comes to this area uses a four-wheeler or SUV to move about. Walking was our mode of transportation because renting a car for a month was too expensive, and my husband and I were uneasy about placing our one-year-old on an ATV (despite the fact that we witnessed other babies and toddlers riding about unconcerned). 

A vibrant all-day cafe serving coffee, fresh juices, savory food, and, as you might expect from the name — all sorts of delicious baked products — we strolled along the bumpy road for almost five minutes until we arrived at The Bakery. After trying a tropical fruit cup, shakshuka in a cast-iron skillet, and scrambled eggs in a baby-sized serving, we discovered our new favorite breakfast location. 

We played in the pool and tried to relax in the hammock after our little guy had his morning nap, but it turns out that a soon-to-be toddler makes that more of a challenge than it sounds. Like other afternoons, this one ended with a long stretch of unfettered beachgoing. At low tide, we explored the tidal pools, played on the powdery beach, took Miles for a swim, and watched the surfers. Despite my best intentions, neither my husband nor I were able to surf during our vacation. However, it was a delightful experience to watch Ticos and other tourists ride the world-famous waves. 

The roasted vegetable platter, penne with arrabbiata sauce, and friendly ambiance at Angelina Santa Teresa were so good that we went back for more than just our first night's dinner. We must have eaten lunch at La Cevicheria a dozen times. Undoubtedly, Uma Santa Teresa was our favorite coastal restaurant. Gather around the entire grilled snapper, some Greek salad, and a variety of small appetizers from the Mediterranean and book a table under the shade of the oceanfront via WhatsApp. When we could get a babysitter, we would go out to El Corazón or Koji's for a date night. 

It wasn't all sushi every night, though, because we were residents of Santa Teresa for quite some time. I still fantasize about the Costa Rican cashew butter that my family used to get from Green World Store. They had the best organic produce, including fresh papaya, mango, and caimito (star apple). 

We didn't feel obligated to do much throughout the month other than relax on the beach and support the local businesses. However, if you're interested in deep-sea fishing, nighttime excursions of bioluminescent Paquera Bay, or just a day trip to Montezuma or Isla Tortuga, you'll find plenty of exciting options in the vicinity. We hopped in a cab and drove the short ten minutes to Mal Pais. From there, we strolled to a hidden cove where we could swim and explore the tidal pools. After that, we grabbed lunch at Tierra Mar. It is possible to walk all the way from Santa Teresa to Mal Pais; however, it may not be feasible if you are carrying a baby. Playa Hermosa, located north of town, is a stunning beach known for its breathtaking sunsets and playful dolphins. 

Our last night at the resort was spent at Hotel Nantipa, where we had a plunge pool in a bungalow surrounded by vegetation, and at Manzu, where we had a low table directly on the beach. As the sun started to set, we watched the surfers come in while munching on gallo fish and digging holes in the sand; it felt like the perfect way to cap off our month-long stay at Santa Teresa, this enchanted place that had welcomed us with open arms and real warmth during this momentous occasion.